Thursday, May 29, 2008

home

I had a great flight home on a non-stop Air France flight from Paris to LAX (12+ hours!). I didn't do a precise count, but it again seemed to me that the French tourists headed for the U.S. greatly outnumbered the Americans coming home.

Here's my plane at the gate in Paris. They had two boarding ramps, one for coach, one for business and first class, something I haven't seen at U.S. airports.

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Place de la Republique

Just across a branch of the river from Place Broglie is the Place de la Republique, with several large neo-Gothic Renaissance structures built by the Germans in the 19th century.

Here is the lovely river view on the way to the Place de la Republique.






The Place de la Republique is a large park surrounded by imposing buildings. This is the Palais du Rhin, which had been the imperial palace in the late 19th century, when Strasbourg was part of Germany. That statue is a war memorial dated 1936.


The National Library is on the south side of the park.







On the walk back to Place Broglie, I noticed this statue of "Kellermann." As I have some relatives named Keller with ancestry in Germany, this seemed worth a picture. If you blow up the image, it refers to "Duc de Valmy," born in Strasbourg in 1735, died in Paris in 1820.





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Opera house

Strasbourg has an historic opera house, but once again I could not find any dance performances to see while in town. This is a good illustration of one of the challenges in doing research on the artform - the difficulty just seeing different works.

Here is the Opera House, at the eastern end of Place Broglie, a few blocks north of the Cathedral.




Here's another view of the Opera House, from the western end of Place Broglie, which was developed in the 18th century.





On the south side of this very pretty plaza is the town hall, once a residence of some counts.





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Protestants

France seems the quintesential Catholic country, so it is surprising to see evidence of Protestantism in Strasbourg. Given the proximity to Germany, where Martin Luther started the Reformation, I suppose this is understandable.

The Eglise St. Pierre le Vieux actually has two adjacent churches, one Catholic, one Protestant. This is just a few blocks east of the train station.








Eglise St. Pierre le June ("New St. Peter's") is on a site traced to a church in the the fourth century, at the end of the Roman occupation. Part of the church was built in the 11th century, more of it in the 14th as a Protestant Church.






The natural lighting in the church reveals the riches of the history of this lovely church, which is a couple of blocks north of Place Kleber. Here are the pipes for the church organ, right in the middle of everything.






Here is an example of the amazing paintings and etchings on the church walls.






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Notre Dame Cathedral

In the center of Strasbourg is the Notre Dame Cathedral, one of the best examples of Gothic architecture in Europe. The building traces to the 12th century and took several more centuries to complete.

It's so big, and surrounded by so many other smaller buildings, on the square that it's impossible to get a clear shot of the Cathedral. Here's a glimpse of the grand entrance, with intricate stonework and statues.



It's dark inside the Cathdral and no flash is allowed, but I did get some shots of a beautiful side chapel.









Some amazing historic buildings surround the Cathedral. This is the Maison Kammerzell, a residence dating to the 16th century, now a restaurant.








The detailed wood carvings on the Maison Kammerzell deserve a close-up.






This building on the west side of the Cathedral housed the Pharmacie du Cerf, dating from the 13th century. It was the oldest chemist in France, but finally closed in 2000.







You can buy your own suit of armor at this gift shop opposite the Cathedral for a mere 2250 Euros.










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Monday, May 26, 2008

La Petite France

One of the most charming and best-preserved historic areas used to be home to the fishermen and craftsmen of the city. Today it swarms with tourists, cafes, and shops.

Here is one of the many pictuesque sites in the La Petite France district.







Even the fire station for the district is quaint.







And even the fire trucks are small and energy efficient.





More energy efficiency: sleek tram lines cut through the center of this historic city.




And bicycles are everywhere, with their own traffic lanes in most places. Men, women, old, young tear around on their bikes. I have yet to see anyone wearing a helmet in this country.



Good thing they also have a national health care system, in which everyone is taken care of and nobody has to depend on the crazy system of private health insurance we have in the U.S. Here's the big hospital in the historic city, still a functioning hospital.

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Sunday, May 25, 2008

Sidetrip to Strasbourg

With the conference over, I took a regular train from Nancy to Strasbourg this morning to do a little sightseeing. It took only 90 minutes for the 97 mile trip, even with several stops along the way. Nancy is in the Lorraine region and Strasbourg is in the Alsace region. I've never visited this part of the country before, so I wanted to make the most of the trip.

This is the front entrance of the Nancy train station, a very elegant, historic building.




The Strasbourg train station was truly peculiar. On the outside it looks like an attempt at ultra-modern chic.





Alas, that silvery bubble is just an expansion of the waiting area, and completely obliterates the facade of the historic station behind it. What a shame to lose the view of this lovely historic station.



It's a beautiful day, so I explored the neighborhood. Fortunately, historic architecture is much better preserved than at the train station. This is the l'Aubette, once used by the military, dating from the 18th century, on the north side of Place Kleber.

This double-decker merry-go-round is at Place Guttenberg. The statue is of Guttenberg, who lived here from 1434-1439 and reportedly did developmental work on his revolutionary printing press while living here.


A first glimpse at the Lille River which surrounds the Old Town area. The architecture is a fascinating mix of French and German, no surprise as the city is right on the German border and was part of Germany until the end of World War I in 1918.


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Saturday, May 24, 2008

Conference continued

I presented my paper on the second day of the conference and was very pleased with the helpful discussion afterwards. Other speakers were Frederic Pouillaude, Sorbonne; Graham McFee, University of Brighton; Julia Beauquel, a doctoral student at Nancy-Universite and one of the conference organizers; and Mikael Karlsson, who teaches at the University of Finland.

On the third and final day, Noel Carroll and Margaret Moore, from Temple University (my doctoral alma mater) presented a paper. They're at the front of the room here.



The other speakers on the final day were Bernard Andrieu and Uwe Behrens, both from Nancy-Universite. At the end of the second day, we saw a film on choreographer Pina Bausch and another contemporary dance performance, "Pluies," performed by Aurore Gruel and Francoise Klein.


Here are Roger Pouivet and Julia Beauquel, who did such a great job organizing this conference, going back a full year now. I learned at lunch with them a few days earlier that Julia actually obtained a copy of my 1981 doctoral dissertation, "Philosophical Problems of Dance Criticism." I think that demonstrates just how limited the literature on philosophy and dance is!


I understand that they are planning to publish all the papers presented at the conference, including French translations of the papers presented in English. The onerous translation duties will fall on Julia, who also translated our conference abstracts for the program.

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Thursday, May 22, 2008

Centre Culturel André Malraux

Today is the first day of the three-day conference, "Esthetique de la Dance: Ontologie, cognition, emotion." It is being held at the Centre Culturel André Malraux in Nancy, an interesting location in many ways.

The Centre is located in an outlying suburban neighborhood in Nancy. The conference organizers led a caravan of three cars to get the speakers to the Centre from our hotel in the historic district. Here is the entrance to the building.


Surprising to me was the fact that we were surrounded by middle-class high-rise apartment buildings in all directions, seemingly built in the unfortunate function-as-form era of the 1950s and 60s.


I discussed this puzzling location with some of the French scholars at the conference. Malraux was a national hero, the Minister of Culture as well as a celebrated novelist. He wanted culture in France to extend to ordinary neighborhoods and not be limited to elite enclaves in major cities and apparently such Centres are located in comparable locations throughout France.

I can sympathize with this political goal for government funding of the arts, but the French told me that the Centres have been less than successful at involving those local communities in the planning and administration of the Centres' activities. I noted that tourists would be unlikely to venture to outlying neighborhoods, and it was unfortunate that the Centres did not seem to be actively engaging the local communities either.

This Centre is a marvelous facility, with sunny, spacious galleries, meeting rooms, and a newly-renovated theatre where we saw two contemporary dance performances. Here is the cafe area where we enjoyed superb espresso during breaks outside the room where our conference sessions were held.


Speakers for the opening day were Roger Pouivet, the conference organizer, and director of the Archives Poincare (standing, back right); Catherine Z. Elgin of Harvard; Catherine Kintzler, Universite de Lille III, and Fabrice Louis, Nancy-Universite.

This is an exceptionally well-organized conference. The scheduling gave us the luxury of time to discuss papers in depth. Philosophy and dance is such a specialized area, it is rare to be in the same room with so many scholars who share my passion for these issues. The speakers also had leisurely buffet luncheons and dinners together, also at the Centre, allowing even more time for extended discussions.

Some papers were presented in English, others in French. In most cases, the French papers were translated into English and distributed to the audience, so we could follow along, and the French scholars were sufficiently fluent to field questions in English.

The evening performance, also at the Centre, was an American contemporary choreographer working in France, Mark Tompkins' Song and Dance. Before the performance, there was a showing of a film about the American post-modern choreographer Merce Cunningham.

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Wednesday, May 21, 2008

Musée and more

My priority this morning was visiting the Musée des beaux-arts on Place Stanislas. Its collection spans several centuries of European art, with pieces by Rodin, Picasso, Monet, and many other familiar names.

It occupies one of the beautiful historic buildings on the square.







Once inside, you realize it has a huge modern addition not visible from the square. Here's a peek at it through the gates.






The lobby is quite beautiful.








These are the grand stairs inside the lobby.



The Opera House is opposite the Museum. This is the entrance on the side street entering the plaza. I was intrigued with the program for the most reason season, which include Les Noces by Bronislava Nijinska, Vaslav's sister. I saw that work decades ago and would love to see it again someday.

Little streets, little cars. I haven't seen a gas station here to check out the prices, but great gas mileage would ease the pain regardless.








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Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Walking around Nancy

It was sunny today - great for a walking tour of Nancy, a city of just over 300,000 steeped in history.

The central highlight of the city is Place Stanislas, a huge, beautiful square ringed with architectural gems designed in the 18th century, outdoor cafes, and museums. In the center is a statue of Stanislas Leszczynski, a deposed King of Poland and father-in-law of Louis XV.


The gloriously filigreed gold gates at each corner and entrances are stunning.







This is the Cafe Foy at the southwest corner of Place Stanislas, where I had lunch today with the conference organizer and a doctoral student specializing in philosophy and dance. This is one of the more specialized areas of aesthetics, and it's always great fun talking with academics who share my passion for the artform.

I ordered Quiche Lorraine. Nancy is in the Lorraine region, what else! It was fabulous. I was surprised that my hosts were not familiar with Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking, where so many Americans learned how to make that quiche and much more.


South of Place Stanislas I spotted this ambitious trompe l'oiel on the side of some commercial buildings.






A sleek tram line cuts through the city. Great public transportation is not limited to large cities in Europe.



More beautiful gates frame the entrance to the Place de la Carriere, once used for cavalry drills, now linking Palais Ducal and Place Stanislas.



North of Place Stanislas is the Palais Ducal, tracing to the 13th century, although it was damaged and restored several times. It now houses the Historical Museum of Lorraine.



Northwest of the Palais Ducal is the L'église des Cordeliers, a church dating from the 15th century and the burial site for the dukes of Lorraine.








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